This temple is located in Mengwi, 16 kilometers northwest of Denpasar. If driving, take the main road to Tabanan through Kapal to the Mengwi turnoff, then proceed north.

The elegant Pura Taman Ayun is the second largest temple complex on Bali, and one of the island's most beautiful shrines. This trim, impressive garden complex lies only one-half km east of the main highway (turn in at the market), accessible by a long walkway.

According to Babad Mengwi, the original structure was built by I Gusti Agung Sakti on 1634, the King of Mengwi at that time. It's partly surrounded by a wide moat with lotuses, which gives the impression the temple is floating. Unlike the overwhelming majority of temples on Bali, the orientation of Taman Ayun is toward Gunung Batukaru and not Gunung Agung.

Consisting of 50 separate structures, this clan temple evokes a palpable sense of calm and beauty. Constructed in four spacious, rising levels, the 'pura' symbolizes the Hindu divine cosmos. Carved demons stand silhouetted against the sky. Ancient gray stone contrasts against the brick-red plaster. Restored and enlarged in 1937, today Pura Taman Ayun is looked after by descendants of the royal family. It's clean, with toilet facilities, trim gardens, and an orchid nursery.

Notice the tall, beautifully crafted split gate with wooden doors and a half kala-face to each side. Inside the older, second courtyard is a long row of 29 shrines where visiting deities can relax and enjoy themselves. The stone altar facing east is dedicated to Ibu Paibon, the royal ancestor. A great number of shrines are replicas of Bali's sacred volcanoes or major temples built by Mengwi's rulers. They sit on moss-covered stone foundations, topped by slender, tiered black-thatched roofs, their small wooden doors masterfully carved.

The replicas are located in the temple so the people of Mengwi can worship and derive benefit from them without the expense and trouble of traveling to the originals. Uluwatu, for example, is symbolized by the 11-tiered 'meru' in the far right-hand corner. This inner court also displays a superbly carved stone trimurti padmasana (three-god throne). To the left are various 'bale' for visitors, dancers, priests, and musicians. Climb the small tower in the lower southwest corner of the complex for the best view of the temple, moat, and surroundings.

There's a lot going on in and around this complex. Hire a little boat and tour the sanctuary from the moat. Pavilions display paintings for sale as well as postcards, textiles, terra-cotta figurines, and fashions. Before the entrance is a huge 'wantilan' where cockfights, Barong dances, and other cultural events are staged. Farther on is a big collection of orchids. On the banks of the moat grow fruit trees and perfumed flowering 'cempaka' and frangipani.

Visit Pura Taman Ayun when the three-day 'odalan' occurs. Watch hundreds of women file over the bridge into the courtyard carrying high, multicolored offerings. The temple filled with people, music, dance, and processions is a magnificent sight. The Mandala Wisata ('Museum of Cremation'), near the Taman Ayun temple, contains palm-woven offerings.