Bangli is an hour's drive (40 km) northeast of Denpasar. An offshoot of the early Gelgel dynasty, the ancient kingdom of Bangli became Bali's most powerful upland court in the second half of the 19th century. Bangli today is perhaps the quietest and most easygoing of all the regency capitals. Bangli has one of the most temperate climates on Bali.

Sights

Eight royal 'puri' were once situated around the main crossroads of town, but now only Puri Denpasar (the present Artha Sastra Inn) is open to the public as the original palace of

Bangli's last raja note the sculptures of lions and bodhisattvas inspired by early photographs of Borobudur, and the remarkable painted mural and frieze in the 'bale loji' depicting Chinese life in Bangli. The mural is in bad shape but you can still make out detail. Also worth seeing is the 100-year-old 'bale kulkul', about a five-minute walk.

The main event is market day, when you'll see products like sweet potatoes, peanuts, and spices not found in the south. Dances and 'wayang kulit' are sometimes staged in the town's 'bale banjar' every 'hari raya', but not with the lavishness or regularity of Gianyar. A resident 'dalang', Dewa Made Rai Mesi, lives just 700 meters from the Artha Sastra Inn.

Accommodations

The Artha Sastra Inn, an original raja's palace, has seen better days. Still, the potted plants and palace court architecture gives this place a unique feel. You can sleep in the bed of the last king of Bangli and participate in the ritual life of a triwangsa family. The Inn is ideally located in the center of Bangli near the bus station-traffic noise from this busy intersection can be bothersome.

Slightly less run-down are the five larger rooms in the interior of the 'puri', with inside 'mandi'. These are adapted from traditional Balinese bale and feature ancient carved doors and antique furniture.

The 'pasar malam' to the east of the bus station serves cheap, delicious meals: 'cap cay goreng' with rice, 'ayam goreng' with vegetables. Or dine at several 'warung makanan kecil' around the bus station. Get there early, as they stay open no later than 2100.

Services

You'll find many shops in the local market south of the Artha Sastra Inn where you can buy the necessities of life. Change cash but not traveler's checks at Bank Pembangunan Daerah (open 0730-1400) by the Trimurti statue, or use a bank in Gianyar, 13 km by 'bemo' to the southwest. There's a pay telephone in front of the Artha Sastra Inn, or go to the 24-hour Wartel (telecommunication service).

Getting There and Away

Take public minibus from Batubulan station (40 km). You can also take 'bemo' from the town of Gianyar (13 km) or from Kintamani. If coming from Klungkung (19 km), you may have to change 'bemo' in Peteluan or simply board a Singaraja-bound 'bemo' and get off in Bangli.

Magnificent views on the way up. From the 'bemo'/bus station opposite the Artha Sastra Inn in Bangli, get rides to Gianyar (13 km), Penelokan (26 km north), Kintamani (33 km), Tampaksiring (22 km) and Denpasar's Batubulan Station (40 km).