Its name means 'Place to Look.' From Denpasar, Penelokan is 56 km. This cool, 1,450-meter-high village perches on the rim of a caldera looking out over the sacred, blackened, smoking volcano of Gunung Batur and Lake Batur, an all-important water catching for south central Bali's agricultural wealth.

Get here by 0800 or 0900, before the clouds move in. Better yet, wake up early to catch the sunrise. In August and September the sunrise is too high, coming up over the middle of the peak, but in June and July it rises to the left of the peak in a golden yellow. At night see the moon sail over the volcano.

The fruit stands opposite the road to Kedisan sell 'jeruk', passion fruit, and other exotic fruit. An exciting, fun ride is to take a bicycle up to Penelokan on top of a 'bemo', then freewheel it all the way back down to the southern coast.

There's a wonderful garden in Desa Teman, see loving cultivation of salak, cengkeh, apokat, coklat, bananas, kopi, nanas, durian, mango, mangosteen, papaya, white and black pepper, ginger, and kunyit. Nice view over a river valley. Farther south is Quilt Alley.

In the highland jungle, are the Bali Aga villages of Selulung, Batukaang, and Catur. See remains of primitive pre-Hindu monuments, lichen-covered stone statues, small Polynesian-style megalithic pyramids.

Shopping and Services

• The shops along the road include some bargain buys.
• The local tourist office (open daily 0900-1500, tel. 62362-23370) is nearly opposite the road down to the lake. Scan the bulletin boards for info on charters, guides working the area, and accommodations.
• A post office located between Penelokan and Kintamani handles parcels, open 0800-1600.
• A postal agent is located next to the police post, about a five-minute walk north of the market.
• Change money at the branch of Bank Rakyat Indonesia about 200 meters up the road to Kintamani.
• Getting There, Getting Away

The most popular way to reach this mountain area is on the highway out of Denpasar by 'bemo' from Batubulan station. 'Bemo' pick up more passengers in Bangli, then head straight up to Penelokan. You can use minibus from Singaraja in the north.

There are also some unfrequented back-road approaches to Penelokan from Ubud, via Payangan. Drive a 100cc (or more) motorcycle through the deep upland interior of Bali. To walk from Ubud via Payangan takes about 12 hours.