Lying on the western shore of Lake Batur, the resort village of Toya Bungkah features an invigorating hot springs, massive cinemascopic views, and a black-sand beach. Toya Bungkah gets busy only during July and August, otherwise there's little traffic or motorboat noise. Just roosters crowing, flies buzzing, children playing, and pool balls socking.

The sulfurous hot springs is known to soothe muscle aches and pains. The volcanically heated water bubbles up from under the lake. The water is not really that hot, though it becomes warmer as the day progresses.

The public 'air panas' is on the other side of Amertha's and free. However, since villagers wash their clothes and cows in these shallow pools, and there's lots of litters around, you don't always feel like bathing here.

The Art Center also called the Balai Seni Toya Bungkah. Above the 'air panas' is a retreat for the study of the arts, including a dance academy and amphitheater. Rooms and bungalows spread out among nice peaceful gardens. You can watch the dances and an occasional 'wayang kulit' for free.

The art center (tel. 62362-780271) was established in 1971 by Sutan Takdir Alisjahbana, a North Sumatran novelist, philosopher, and painter. Known as 'The Father of the Indonesian Language,' Alisjahbana played a pivotal role in developing Bahasa Indonesia as a tool for sophisticated intellectual and technical usage.

Many travelers arrive in Toya Bungkah in the afternoon, stay the night, rise early to climb Gunung Batur, then descend from the mountain and reach Kedisan via Prajurti and Seked by midday. Houseboys and 'professional guides' everywhere in Toya Bungkah are available for the climb. A guide will approach you with a 'thank you' book for their guide services. The price depends on the age and experience of the guide, the size of the group, your bargaining power, and supply and demand.

Accommodations

Toya Bungkah contains about 15 'losmen', most lining the road and surrounded by neatly landscaped gardens. Look around before you settle on one. Except for the Art Center, all offer quite plain rooms, which includes toilet, shower, and front veranda. Unlike other budget accommodations on Bali, breakfast is sometimes not included in the price, inquire first. Most 'losmen' are located in the west end of the village.

More secluded than Toya Bungkah's other 'losmen', the Art Center has more expensive rooms, each with 'mandi', European toilet. They look out over landscaped gardens, near the lake, with attached 'mandi' with bathtub and shower.

Food

There's an abundance of small restaurants and shabby small warung that offer the usual tourist fare at cheap prices. Most come with great views of the lake, many specialize in grilled lake fish, small and bony but tasty.

Getting There

From Penelokan, there's a good paved road via Seked and Prajurti. You can get to Toya Bungkah by 'bemo'. Alternatively, you can hitch a ride down to the crater from a tourist or a truck, then walk to Toya Bungkah from Kedisan in an hour. Or take a boat from Kedisan. Getting Away From Penelokan regular buses leave for Singaraja and Denpasar.

Public transport is always more frequent in the morning. After 1300, the bemo are more infrequent; you may have to charter or accept an outrageous price. A tour of the volcano area requires 10 hours; at the end a car waits for you in Toya Mampeh to return you to Toya Bungkah.

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