The Land

The 76,312-hectare (777-square-km) Taman Nasional Bali Barat, with its complex of habitats including forests and coral-fringed islands, is the wild side of Bali. Since Bali is such a densely populated, intensively cultivated island, very little of Bali's forests are left.

To preserve a portion of the island as a wilderness zone, as a buffer against human settlements that border it, and as a resource for forest products, Bali Barat National Park in Bali's western end was officially gazetted as one of Indonesia's 10 national parks in 1984. The park today encompasses 10% of Bali's total land area. If managed wisely, the tourism potential of its adjacent marine reserve is almost unlimited.

The park is managed by the Indonesian Forestry Service (PHPA), which limits and controls public access. Bali Barat National Park was initially established by the Dutch in 1941 to protect the endemic white starling of Bali (Loucospar rothschildi), and the last of the island's wild 'banteng'.

The Balinese subspecies of the Asian tiger may also have roamed the area, but by 1941 its existence was doubtful. Despite rumors to the contrary, the last animal was probably shot in the 1930s.

Though not nearly as rugged as the areas surrounding the higher mountains of eastern Bali, primary monsoon forests (about 50,000 hectares) are found along the watershed on the southern slopes of the mountains Sangiang, Merbuk, Musi, and Patas.

None of these mountains, lying in the eastern and central areas of the park, are higher than 1,500 meters. Gunung Patas gained international notoriety in April 1974 when a Pan-Am 707 jet slammed into its side, killing all 107 people aboard.

The park's southern sector is watered by clear streams and traversed by footpaths that promise steep but relatively easy walking through forested hills. The park's northern sector is much drier than the south, the habitat of scrub acacia, palm savanna, dense mangrove swamps, and unspoiled reefs.

On the way to the park from the east, immediately before the park's entrance on the right (21-km northeast of Cekik) is Banyuwedang Hotsprings, believed to posses curative powers. A well is the source of the sulphurous water. You bathe in a wooden shelter close to the mangroves. From the highway walk or drive 900 meters to the gate, pay, then walk 100 meters to the springs.

Climate

The north coast of Bali is generally drier than the south, especially between May and November. The coast of Cape Prapat Agung is exposed to rainy season squalls, though the cape shelters Pulau Menjangan and Teluk Terima. At sea level, temperatures are high throughout the year. Hill temperature inland varies according to elevation and tree cover.

Fauna

The park offers rusa (deer), 'kancil', barking deer, long-tailed macaques, civets, monkeys, wild boars, and perhaps 30 or so 'banteng' (Bos javanicus)-living ancestors of today's deer-like Balinese cattle.

The park's profuse and beautiful birdlife includes the endangered Bali starling (popularly known as jalak bali) and sea and shore birds, the most conspicuous being brown boobies and lesser frigate birds. Two species of terns nest in large numbers on a sandy bay at the entrance of Teluk Lumpur ('Mud Bay'), while the boobies and frigates roost on Pulau Burung farther east.

An extremely rare species, Bali's only remaining endemic creature, the Bali starling (jalak putih in Indonesian) averages 23 cm in length and features black wingtips and tail, silky white feathers, and brilliant blue rings around its eyes. Not to be confused with the black-winged starling which has black wings and tail.

It lives in groups of two or three in the acacia scrub and dry monsoon forests on the north coast of Cape Prapat Agung. Using birds from zoos on Java for breeding, conservationists hope to increase the small number of birds surviving in the wild.

To see live specimens, visit the Bali Starling Recovery Project in Tegal Bunder or at Teluk Kelor, north of Batu Licin, to the east. Get a 'bemo' from Labuhan Lalang to Sumberklampok, then turn right and walk two km to the Recovery Project at Tegal Bunder. When you come to some buildings, turn right and walk another 200 meters to the aviary.

Take off your shoes and socks, walk down a hall, and look through the tiny windows of the aviary. The birds live in the trees and are fed from big buckets of bugs. There are only nine birds and perhaps 50 more in the jungle.

Hawksbill turtles and 10-meter-long toothless whale sharks have been sighted along the reserve's north coast, and whales and dolphins migrate via Selat Bali between Java and Bali. More like a forest than a jungle, the park offers exceptional walking and first-class panoramas. Day trips can be arranged by the PHPA office in Labuhan Lalang. Part of the walk is cross-country with no trails. At times you have to crawl through undergrowth and use paths frequented by wild ox and deer. Birds are everywhere-incredible surround sound.

An interesting walk is the 25-km-long track along the coast of Cape Prapat Agung (highest elev. 310 meters). This cape is cut off from the rest of the reserve by the main Singaraja-Gilimanuk road, as well as by settlements and coconut, teak, and eucalyptus plantations. Into this wilderness bring lots of water as it can get extremely hot. Make sure your guide is a good birdspotter (the park has 160 species) and bring binoculars.

Information and Permits

The best info on hiking and guides, a small exhibit, scale model of the park, and possibly even maps can be had from the park headquarters in Cekik, three km south of Gilimanuk at the junction of the road from Singaraja with the road from Denpasar.

Dark green 'bemo' from Denpasar's Ubung Station pass Cekik on their way to Gilimanuk. The park headquarters is open Mon.-Thurs. 0800-1400, Friday 0800-1100, and Saturday 0800-1200. The PHPA maintains a branch office at Labuhan Lalang (12 km east of Cekik) with a useful relief map of the park. Open 0800-1800.

You must have a permit, and be accompanied by a guide to enter the reserve plus the cost of vehicles or boats. One day permits and guides are available at the park headquarters in Cekik and the ranger station at Labuhan Lalang, as well as the Department of Forestry (PHPA) office in Denpasar (Jalan Suwung 40, Box 320). You don't need a permit to drive through the park from Singaraja to Gilimanuk road; get to Labuhan Lalang by public 'bemo' from Lovina.

A typical walk lasts five hours. Early or the late in the day is the best time to see wildlife. Dress like your guide: jeans and long sleeves for protection from thorns and snags. Take a lunch and sit quietly in the forest to hear the symphony.