Go first to Dencarik village, about 18 km west of Singaraja on the highway to Seririt. From the highway where the 'bemo' lets you off, walk two km, then at the intersection just before the Banjar Tegal market, turn left up the paved road.

Climb another two km (40 minutes) to the hilltop monastery. Or take a 'honda ojek' all the way up the steep hill from the Banjar turnoff. Wear long pants or a sarong as you must be respectfully dressed. Entering the vihara, sign the guestbook and give a donation.

This storybook monastery, also known as Brahma Vihara Asrama, has a gleaming orange tile roof, Sukothai-style gold leaf Buddha images, 'raksasa' door guardians, brightly painted stupa with Buddha eyes, and exuberant woodcarvings-a dazzling mix of Balinese Hindu and Buddhist components. Opened in 1970, it's the only Buddhist monastery on Bali.

Tibet's Dalai Lama paid a visit in 1982, and Bali's Chinese make regular pilgrimages to this peaceful hillside ashram. Severely damaged in the July 1976 earthquake, it has since been completely restored.

The Theravadic vipashana breathing technique is practiced here, the aim to produce clear comprehension and mindfulness. The resident bhikku (Buddhist teacher) will guide you to equanimity. The bhikku is only here May-June, Aug.-Sept., and Dec.-January. Instruction in English only in September and April.

All are welcome, but anyone visiting overnight is encouraged to write first. Several times a year students 'speech fast', and no writing, reading, or talking is allowed. Quite comfortable, with plenty of good vegetarian food. If you eat, pay.

Note the panels depicting Buddha fables, a temple bell from Thailand, and a specimen of the bo tree of enlightenment. A number of books on Buddhism are for sale. The hall at the bottom is for prayer, the top building for meditation. Unsurpassed views over the north coast. At night, stars reflect in the rice paddies and fireflies fill the air.

The road continues past the monastery and up the mountain to the village of Pedawa. Walk from the monastery to the 'air panas' on a small path in just 10 minutes, or drive by going back down the hill and taking the first left, then another left after the market. Drive 120 meters, then make another left and drive two kilometers.