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BULELENG

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Jagaraga

   

Heading east from Singaraja turn right (south) at the end of Sangsit village on the road to Sawan. Jagaraga is four kilometers and Sawan is two kilometers farther.

From Singaraja's Penarukan station 'bemo' go direct to Sawan so visit Sawan first then just walk down to Jagaraga. A number of temples are found on this road, all featuring effusive, cunning, and mischievous carvings A fantastic ride, with archaic villages surrounded by vegetation not found anywhere else on Bali.

Jagaraga's architecturally extravagant 'pura dalem', one km north of the village, is dedicated to Durga. It features carved comic-strip panels of cyclists, Balinese flying kites, dog fighting airplanes, fishermen hooking a whale, a Dutch steamer, long-nosed Dutchmen in a Model-T Ford held up by a bandit with a horse pistol, and mammoth fish swallowing a canoe.

Incredibly flamboyant statues of Rangda the witch, and the dazed mother, Men Brayut, buried under a pile of children. The detail of the vintage cars is wonderful, with mudguards, lamps, carburetors, and doors all portrayed. Stone owls, roosters, bats, tigers, and crabs cling to the walls.

The villages on the steep inland slopes of Buleleng are of ancient origin. Inscriptions dating from the 10th century tell of pirate raids, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions.

Jagaraga was the stronghold of Gusti Ketut Jelantik and his army, who defied two large and well-armed expeditions in 1846 and 1848 before falling to a superior Dutch infantry and artillery force. This 16 August 1849 battle was known as Puputan Jagaraga. Nearly the entire village was wiped out. Today Jagaraga is home to one of north Bali's best Legong troupes.


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