Heading east from Singaraja turn
right (south) at the end of Sangsit village on the
road to Sawan. Jagaraga is four kilometers and Sawan
is two kilometers farther.
From Singaraja's Penarukan station 'bemo' go direct
to Sawan so visit Sawan first then just walk down
to Jagaraga. A number of temples are found on this
road, all featuring effusive, cunning, and mischievous
carvings A fantastic ride, with archaic villages
surrounded by vegetation not found anywhere else
on Bali.
Jagaraga's architecturally extravagant 'pura dalem',
one km north of the village, is dedicated to Durga.
It features carved comic-strip panels of cyclists,
Balinese flying kites, dog fighting airplanes, fishermen
hooking a whale, a Dutch steamer, long-nosed Dutchmen
in a Model-T Ford held up by a bandit with a horse
pistol, and mammoth fish swallowing a canoe.
Incredibly flamboyant statues of Rangda the witch,
and the dazed mother, Men Brayut, buried under a
pile of children. The detail of the vintage cars
is wonderful, with mudguards, lamps, carburetors,
and doors all portrayed. Stone owls, roosters, bats,
tigers, and crabs cling to the walls.
The villages on the steep inland slopes of Buleleng
are of ancient origin. Inscriptions dating from
the 10th century tell of pirate raids, earthquakes,
and volcanic eruptions.
Jagaraga was the stronghold of Gusti Ketut Jelantik
and his army, who defied two large and well-armed
expeditions in 1846 and 1848 before falling to a
superior Dutch infantry and artillery force. This
16 August 1849 battle was known as Puputan Jagaraga.
Nearly the entire village was wiped out. Today Jagaraga
is home to one of north Bali's best Legong troupes. |