Four km west of Pulaki, 15 km east of Labuhan Lalang, 28 km east of Gilimanuk, and about 40 km west of Lovina, this is one of the most idyllic resorts in all of Bali. The tidy, black-sand, scenic beach leads to some of the island's best snorkeling, with great drop-offs just one km offshore. Visit Chris Brown's turtle hatchery. At night, the fishing boats light their lamps out on the ocean.

Visit the home selling singing perkutut (doves). Take a 'dokar' to Melanting Temple. Venture out to look for dolphins. From the small nearby fishing village you can rent 'jukung'. Good fishing along this gorgeous, inviting coast with a dramatic backdrop of mountains. In two hours you can climb to the top of the mountains to the west from where you can view either the sunrise and sunset.

Beware of the Muslim mosque, which blasts early morning prayers. Bring earplugs. These loudspeakers are all that keep this beautiful, reclusive place from becoming the perfect getaway.

Watersport

Australian dive master and PADI instructor Chris Brown operates an eco-friendly dive and snorkel operation here (Reef Seen, Desa Pemuteran, Gerogak, Singaraja 81115, tel. 62362-92339, e-mail: reefseen@denpasar.wasantara.net.id) 100 meters east of Pondok Sari. Brown caters to underwater videomakers and photographers, and also offers equipment rental, repair, and service.

Several nights a week he screens a video of the superlative dive sites in Bali. The 'tickets' he sells to snorkelers are basically a way of familiarizing people with the rules: respect the reef and the community, don't stand on it, don't feed the fish, no nudity. Chris also gives back to the village, holding Balinese dance classes for kids with performances of five different dances on Saturday nights.

Midday is high tide at Pemuteran. The Napoleon Reef is 1.5 km out. The soft coral like flowers blooming. There's a large shallow area with plenty of reef fish (damselfish, silver fusiliers, blue dancers, snappers, etc.), as well as a drop-off with occasional manta rays. Modified dive 'perahu' takes you to the reef from the dive center.

Great snorkeling too. Closer to the shore in front of Pondok Sari it's murkier and there's not as much fishlife as farther out, although you still see locals fishing near the beach.