Eight kilometers east of Singaraja (by 'bemo' from Penarukan station) lies Sangsit's main attraction, the brilliant Pura Beji, dedicated to the goddess of wet rice and fertility, Dewi Sri. Located about 500 meters down a cactus-lined side road to the sea; look for the small sign on the left side of the road.

This extraordinarily lavish 'subak' temple, one of the oldest in north Bali, was built in the 15th-century on the site of a well. Though a bit commercialized, it presents a perfect example of the northern rococo style of temple carving, with strange off-angle symmetry.

Built of easily carved soft pink sandstone, the 'pura' swarms with carved demons and stone vegetation. The temple's spellbinding gateway is composed of naga-snakes, imaginary beasts, devils, and 'leyak' guardians overseeing tiny doors. In the temple's spacious inner courtyard you'll see gnarly old 'kamboja' trees, wooden statues, and a throne of the sun-god.

Near Pura Beji, 400 meters to the northeast, is Sangsit's 'pura dalem', which contains relief panels illustrating the Balinese philosophy of 'karma pala'. Karma means action or deed, 'pala' result. On the panels you'll see the punishment awaiting a man who has committed adultery, and ghastly tortures meted out on childless women and other miscreants.