A trip to Danau Buyan and smaller Danau Tamblingan has the feel of a mini-archaeological expedition. Both are contained within one vast caldera. A rugged area lying between 500 and 1,500 meters above sea level. Because of the scarcity of public transport, the trip is best accomplished with a chartered vehicle or motorcycle.

There are two approaches. West of Singaraja, turn south at Seririt and follow the asphalt road to Munduk, which then runs east along the tranquil northern shores of Danau Tamblingan and Danau Buyan. For an easier approach, head south on the main highway out of Singaraja.

About eight km before Bedugul, bear right and ride along a ridge for five km through the village of Paluan. Just before entering Munduk, turn left and bump along a dirt road for 3.5 km down to Lake Tamblingan. Ask for directions periodically, and pause to smell the fields of hydrangeas and coffee plants and hear the sounds of an almost primeval upland rainforest.

When you reach the lake, turn right just before the house and travel one kilometer on a road full of butterflies and morning glories. The road is drive-able, but at the end you'll have to park and walk 500 meters down a wide trail to the archaeological site. Look for the old lichen-covered grindstones under a forked 'cempaka' tree.

The stones themselves are not such a big deal, but the trip there is an adventure, the serene lake is surrounded by beautiful peaks, and there are no ticket takers or tourists.