To reach the quiet beach resort of Yeh Sanih, catch a minibus (17 km) from Singaraja's Penarukan station. This shady seaside spot offers an idyllic black-sand beach-a bit rocky, but the swimming is good. Enjoy wooden bale for sun-bathing.

Yeh Sanih's main attraction is an enclosed natural swimming pool of clear, fresh, cool water welling up from an underground spring. Known by the locals as a recreation site since the early 30s, the water is believed to come from Lake Batur in the mountains-the temple near the pool is thus dedicated to Lord Vishnu. Cool sea breezes, tall trees, and the nice panorama over the Bali Strait make for a serene setting.

Visit the 'pura' on the hill, Pura Taman Manik Mas. In the mornings take a swim in the ocean-more like a lake than a sea. Not a soul on the beach to bother you. Quite passable snorkeling 500 meters out, another good snorkeling spot one km away.

Seven km east of Yeh Sanih is the ancient temple Pura Pondok Batu ('Pile of Stones') perched on a small rock face and surrounded by hills, valleys, and twisted frangipani trees. It's said the wandering Javanese priest Nirartha sat on one of the temple's stones and composed poetry.

Inside the temple is a well-crafted but eroded statue of Durga. Nearby on the beach at low tide is a freshwater springs frequented by locals, the water bubbling up from the sand and running into the sea.