The small, bustling administrative center of Gianyar Regency is 23 km from Denpasar's Terminal Kreneng. Gianyar is important from a tourist point of view both as a 'bemo' stop for those heading north to Kintamani or east to Klungkung and as a center for native Balinese ikat weaving (called endek in Balinese).

It also has several jeweler's shops selling traditional gold jewelry and a large cockfighting arena (wantilan). Its 'babi guling' stands and Joged groups are famous all over the island.

The old palace (puri), visible through a gate, is in the middle of town facing the 'alun-alun'. Still a private residence, prior permission is required to visit. First built in 1771 on the site of a priest's house, it barely survived a number of 19th-century wars, but was destroyed by the 1917 earthquake.

Rebuilt in the 1920s, it's one of the few traditional and best preserved Balinese palaces still existing, and one of few still lived in by a royal family. Its spacious courtyards are decorated with stonework and carved wood pillars. Visit the western courtyard, with its two impressive gates and gilded bale. In the 'alun-alun' stands a 'waringin' tree, an all-important symbol of Balinese and Javanese royal courts.

There's a thriving 'art market' everyday where you can bargain for just about any arts and crafts product made on the island, and a few that aren't. A woodcarving-training center is in Abianbase a few blocks from Gianyar's police station.

Visit before 1200. Called Sasana Hasta Karya, it was set up in 1983 by the Denpasar Catholic church as an assistance program to unemployed youth. The carving follows Balinese traditional style with some thematic inspiration from the Borobudur and Prambanan temples in Central Java.

Shop for your handwoven and hand-dyed textiles and sarong here. Just before entering town from Denpasar you'll find several textile shops and factories with showrooms selling sarong, colorfully decorated T-shirts, shirts and stunning 'ikat'. Prices are high for the quality, but the designs and colors are utterly unique. Best to buy in the off-season because tourists drive prices up. The materials used are synthetic (plastic twine and chemical dyes).

Pasar Senggol, the big culinary attraction of Gianyar, takes place on the main street near the market every night 1700-2100. All the best traditional dishes are found here: grilled chicken (ayam kampung), rice mixed with sweet potatoes (tepeng), and Balinese 'kampung' sweets. Even the people from Denpasar drive all the way here because the night market has such a concentration of authentic Balinese village food without a touristy atmosphere.

In Bitra, two-km northwest of Gianyar, a famous death temple (pura dalem) sits under a big banyan tree beside a river. A state 'pura' dedicated to the descendants of the throne of Dewa Manggis is found at Beng, three-km northeast of Gianyar. Kramas, four km to the south, is a center for music and dance, particularly for its arja theatrical performers, as it was once the seat of 17th-century prince Gusti Agung Maruti.

Samprangan, two km to the east past the Sangsang River, was the site of a former royal palace of Javanese aristocrat Kepakisan, who was sent by general Gajah Mada to represent Majapahit interests in the area. The very old 'pura dalem' that houses the sacral drinking bowl of Kepakisan's horse is behind the village 'wantilan'. It's the only remnant of this 'puri'.

North of Gianyar is Bukit Jati ('Hill of Teak'). The teak trees disappeared decades ago, but there's a fine panorama from the temple of cascading rice fields.

Information and Service

The tourist office for Gianyar District (Dinas Pariwisata Gianyar) is at Jalan Ngurah Rai 21 (Mon-Fri 0700-1700, tel. 62361-93.401) but it's easier to get info in Ubud.

Getting There and Away

'Bemo' heading east from Denpasar, from the south, and from the north are forced to pass through Gianyar (listen for the abbreviated nyar!) Destinations and distances: Denpasar, 23 km ; Kutri, 10 km ; Bedulu, five km ; Sidan, 3 km ; Pejeng, 10 km.