Among Amlapura's four palaces, each facing the cardinal points, the most famous is that of the last raja, Anak Agung Anglurah Ketut. Built early this century, Puri Kanginan is a big complex, surrounded by a thick redbrick wall. Enter through an elaborate three-tiered pagoda-style entrance. Inside, an air of slow decay prevails.

The fountains have stopped spouting and dragons and serpents sit stonily with wide-open mouths, yet it's a functioning 'puri' with connecting walkways over pools and compounds set-aside for the royal family.

A combination of European, Chinese, and Balinese architecture and interior design were used in this puri's construction. The Bale Amsterdam is the island's best-known example of Balinese experimentation with the formal Dutch architectural style. Some of the deteriorating furniture in the palace's Maskerdam reception building was donated by Queen Wilhelmina of Holland.

The largest and most striking pavilion is Bale London, with flourishing Edwardian decorations and a long veranda. It was given this curious name because its furniture is decorated with what the raja thought to be the British royal crest.

Over the bale entrance is a widely reproduced 1939 photo of the mustachioed raja, shot at a time when the district was granted limited self-rule by the Dutch. The king's own pavilion has all his clothes and belongings preserved under lock and key. Also see the traditional, ornate toothfiling bale.

As the raja had nine recognized wives, many families-as many as 150 people-still live inside the palace. Among the residents is the raja's grandson, painter Anak Agung Ardana, who produces bright colored cubist-style paintings. Several women occupants still weave gold-brocaded 'songket'.

Since it's difficult to determine which buildings are occupied or sacred, it's best to let the eager children guide you. The 'puri' is open to tourists (open 0800-1700) and you'll get a single-page info sheet explaining the pictures on the main building after paying admission fee. Overnight guests sometimes accepted.

Tariff includes breakfast, Balinese rijstaffel, drinks, and laundry. Write in advance to the old raja's grandson, Anak Agung Ketut Rai, c/o Puri Agung, Amlapura. Guests may dine on a 'bale' over a lily pond and are also admitted to the scheduled palace celebrations.

If coming from the town's center, take the road to the left just before the 'puri' to the small water palace and a memorial statue from Queen Wilhelmina.