A low, protected island about 11 km southeast of mainland Bali, measuring only four by three km and ringed with mangrove swamps, and palms and white sandy beaches. Inland the terrain is scrubby and very dry, with volcanic stone walls and processional avenues crisscrossing the small cactus-covered hills.

Crops are meager, and the only fruit available is melon. All other food must be imported from the market in Denpasar or from the neighboring island of Nusa Penida.

The island is small enough to explore on foot, offering pristine beaches and coves, majestic views of Gunung Agung, unique Balinese architecture, and the friendliness of a simple country folk.

With a lack of arable land and a severe shortage of tourist attractions, the island's economy is limited to its underwater wealth-seaweed. A secondary occupation is catering to visiting surfers. Between Nusa Lembongan and the adjacent island of Nusa Ceningan, the population is only 60,000.

Life on Nusa Lembongan is very relaxing, with cool breezes, little traffic, no big hotels, no pollution, and no stress.

There are just two villages on Nusa Lembongan-the large, spread-out administrative center of Desa Lembongan, and the village of Jungut Batu. Surfers and backpackers hang out in the latter-about 150 per month, for an average stay of three to five days.

The only other visitors are European, Japanese, and Australian day-trippers on excursion boats. Jungut Batu offers the island's best accommodations and water sport opportunities. There's motorcycle traffic between the two villages and it's easy to get a lift.

Visit the seaweed gardens at low tide. They look like gigantic underwater botanical gardens. Two kinds are grown, the small red pinusan and the large green kotoni. Almost the entire crop is exported to Hong Kong for use in the cosmetics and food processing industries. After harvesting, gatherers leave a floating offering of rice and flowers that gently drifts away on the outgoing tide.

Water Sports

Since the seaweed gardens must be protected from petrol-based pollutants, motorized boats are restricted in these waters. Nusa Lembongan and the adjacent island of Nusa Ceningan are therefore known for superb snorkeling, diving, and surfing. You can rent surfboards, masks and flippers quite reasonably in Jungut Batu, or they may be supplied 'free' by the captain whose services and boat you hire.

It's not possible to arrange for scuba diving on Nusa Lembongan. You must either bring all your gear and your own dive-equipped boat or accompany a dive excursion with one of the specialized sea sport companies on the mainland. When the tide is low, it's possible to wade out to see reef animals and colorful fish in amazingly clear water. Because of the seaweed farms, it's difficult to wade out that far; most people take a motorized 'jukung' to the reef, about 150 meters offshore.

If you're part of a small group, bargain with one of the captains to take you out snorkeling or trawling for tuna. The price includes snorkels, fins, and masks, lines and bait, the boat, and petrol. Not many fish but the snorkeling is great. The captains know the best offshore coral reefs. Probably the best is Mushroom Bay, a small cover within easy reach of Jungutbatu, named after it's extensive mushroom coral.

Getting There

Public boats run from Kusamba and Padangbai, but the most popular point of embarkation is from Sanur, where 'perahu motor' departs from in front of the Ananda Hotel (north of the Grand Bali Beach Hotel). Ask for 'stasiun bot'. Buy your ticket in the small ticket office on the left at the end of Jalan Hangtuah. Boats usually leave only in the morning; in the afternoon the waves are too rough.

It's quite a trick to board. You run out to the boat between the waves while carrying your stuff on your head to keep it out of the waist-deep water, trying to climb aboard before the next big wave crashes over you. Sometimes help is required to push the boat over the sand and out to sea.

Smaller motorized 'jukung', which carry about 15 people, sail from Kusamba to Nusa Lembongan. Turn right down Jalan Pasir Putih and ask for the 'dermaga' in Banjarbias. Sometimes the morning boat from Kusamba sails only to Toyapakeh on Nusa Penida. In this case, just hop on the first 'jukung motor' leaving Toyapakeh for Jungut Batu on Nusa Lembongan. The 11-km crossing requires an hour and a half, depending on the currents.

The strait separating Bali from these offshore islands can be fickle and even treacherous. Lives have been lost. You never know what the weather or sea will bring, so hire something substantial. Boats also leave when full from Padangbai. If four or five people contribute to a charter, you can visit not only Nusa Lembongan but also Nusa Ceningan and Nusa Penida. The boatmen always want their money in advance, 'to buy petrol.'

Returning to Mainland

The boats to Sanur leave Jungut Batu at 0400 or 0500. After 0600 it can prove expensive. Be prepared to get pretty wet even in a calm sea. Alternatively, you can grab a boat from Jungut Batu to Toyapakeh at around 0500, from there take the local boat to the mainland. Or climb aboard the speedy Bali Hai back to Sanur. A small canoe will take you from Jungut Batu's beach out to the hydrofoil by 1400.

The Bali Hai sails back to Sanur at around 1500. From Jungut Batu to Banjarbias in Kusamba, there's only one regular boat in the very early morning. You could possibly find a seawood farmer in Jungut Batu who will take you across cheaper. Again, you may have to get yourself over to Toyapakeh on Nusa Penida to catch a boat.