This stark, rolling country feels a million miles from Bali. From Batukandik a bumpy road takes you along a gently rising and falling ridge four kilometers to the cool, 400-meter-high village of Tanglad. From Klumpu turn right and climb the hill 10 km. You can catch a 'bemo' to Tanglad from Sampalan at 0800 or 0900, after the market. Along the way glimpse both the northern and southern coasts of the island.

Tanglad is a very traditional, pre-industrial, rocky mountain village of steep-roofed stone houses sprawling across hills, inhabited by bare-breasted, betel-chewing, middle-aged women. Of a population of 2,000, sixty are weavers. You'll be shown 'antique' pieces, woven with handspun cotton 15-20 years ago. The rough designs and crude techniques are light years away from the sophisticated 'ikat' designs of Sumba and Flores.

In the temple on the village common, see the throne of the sun-god Surya in a sculptural style reminiscent of East Java's Candi Sukuh.