Except for Bali Barat National Park, the pristine rainforest covering 2,275-meter-high Gunung Batukau is the only wilderness region left on this densely populated island. Known locally as Coconut Shell Mountain, this inactive volcano is the most westerly of Bali's three highest summits and completely dominates the regency of Tabanan.

On Batukaru's slopes is Pura Luhur, one of the island's national sad-kahyangan temples, seldom visited by tourists because of its remote location in the middle of a montane forest.

To climb Gunung Batukaru, hire a guide in Wangaya Gede village two-km south of Pura Luhur. From the outer courtyard of the temple, walk 200 meters to a small river, then cross the bridge and turn north up the steep trail through a thick, damp, slippery forest to the top. Only birdsong is audible and only the trail visible during the five to six hour climb. Though climbing it in one go is possible, most climbers rent a tent from their guide and spend the night near the top.

The view from Gunung Batukaru's overgrown summit is blocked by trees. A small temple of roofless stone shrines is on the top. Don't attempt this climb in the rainy season, and don't even try to reach Pura Luhur by road if you don't have a sturdy vehicle with a cooling system in good working order. If you're on a motorbike, you're going to get wet.

Getting There and Away

Public 'bemo' only go to Pura Luhur on festival days but you can reach Jatuluwih (via Penebel) by 'bemo' from where you can bargain with the driver to take you up to the temple. Board Jatuluwih-bound 'bemo' from Tabanan's Tawakilang 'bemo' station, two km north of Tabanan's center, leaving about every hour until noon. If driving yourself, first turn right a bit west of Tabanan and travel north on a steep narrow road up the southern slopes through lovely rice terraces and untouristed villages.

Three km before the mid-sized market town of Penebel a turnoff west takes you to the hot springs of Yeh Panas, then on to Wangaya Gede, a village just two km south of Pura Luhur, and finally to the 'desa' of Batukaru where Pura Luhur Batukaru is located. Pura Luhur can also be reached from the main Mengwi-Bedugul road by taking the road east to Marga. These cool, jungled uplands have sublime landscapes, with green moss everywhere.