Just four km southwest of Kediri (12 km south of Tabanan) is this small and friendly pottery village of one-story thatch compounds squeezed between two rivers, covering an area of 1.5 square km. Untouched by the modern world, Pejaten has long been known as a center for hand-decorated, wheel-thrown pottery and ceramic roof tiles. The red clay was traditionally mined on village land until it began to run out in the early '80s.

In 1985 the villagers started experimenting with high temperature porcelain, and within a few years Pejaten was turning out not only washbasins and pots but also porcelain dinner sets, elegant bowls, delicate animal figurines, and open latticework filigree vases. High-fired porcelain is much less fragile than traditional terracotta. Before long, the ceramic pieces were in high demand at Bali hotels, restaurants and shops.

Roof tilemaking, however, remains the primary economic activity of about 90% of the town's 4,000 inhabitants. Widely used by the island's building trade, these dull red terra-cotta tiles with relief of gods, goddesses and 'wayang' heroes are patterned after a style first introduced by the painter Kay It. Check out the fanciful ornaments, called jambangan, popularly used to decorate the apex of thatched roofed houses.

Pejaten's humorous, grotesque standing clay figures-inspired by the stories of the Ramayana and Mahabharata-decorate gardens and walls all over Bali. A big, jolly, clownish terra-cotta fat man weighs about 15 kg, but is quite fragile since the sculpture isn't high-fired. You'll also see huge 80-cm unglazed earthen water jars for about the same price. Clay is imported from the Malang area of East Java.

Smoke from dozens of coconut husk-fueled brick kilns billows from the yards of the village 'kampung'. Any ceramic worker will lead you to one of dozens of workshops. There are only two retail display rooms, open daily 0800-1800, about one-half km from one another.

The best pieces are the glazed Chinese-style ceramics with beautiful ornamentation. Look for unique animal shapes-fish, lizards, frogs, turtles, monkeys-which climb out of sugar bowls, lidded bowls, teapots, stopped perfume jars, soap dishes, ashtrays, cups, covered clay glasses, and napkin holders. Colors are flat, pastel shades of gray-green celadon, light blue, or ivory. Order a whole dinner set for six to 12 people, made specifically to your design.

Moreover, don't expect startling artistic merit-craftspeople in Europe, Australia and the States are just as original and charge about the same price. These are more curios than art pieces. On hand are factory-produced sure sellers, which are duplicated over and over again. Look for the unusual.

Getting there and away

Seven km north of Tanah Lot, Pejaten is easily reached on a narrow, beautiful country road west of the main west-to-east road. Just follow the signs. An even more scenic way is the nine-km backcountry road from Kerambitan.

Head east, cross over the bridge in the dip, then turn right at the intersection to Pejaten via Seronggo (a popular fishing spot), Curah, Sudirmara, Bedha (a large agricultural temple), then Pejaten. Be ready to stop for festivals and ceremonies on the way. After Pejaten, go six-km southwest to Tanah Lot for the sunset.