Inside the royal compound are peaceful gardens, pavilions with unusual gold-plated carvings, and many charming traditional buildings filled with well-preserved antiques and art objects.

In perfect harmony with this setting, Pak Oka (Identical twin grandsons-Anak Agung Ngurah Oka Silagunadha or 'Pak Oka' and Anak Agung Rai Giri Gunadhi or 'Pak Rai'-of the late king preside over the palaces), maintains an unmistakable royal bearing.

Ask him to show you his 'celebrity' corner in the family living quarters. On the wall are framed photographs of Pak Oka with all the distinguished guests who've visited the palace-King Hussein, Prince Bartiel of Sweden, Kurt Waldheim, Mick Jagger, David Bowie, and that of a famous kabuki dancer.

The bale gong (concert hall) in front of the 'puri' houses artwork, the royal orchestra, and an impressive collection of musical instruments, 'kris' and sacred masks. On the right as you enter the 'puri' is a courtyard containing the family shrines, embedded with Chinese and Dutch porcelain and tiles. One rare blue Delft piece dates from the Napoleonic period. Bonaparte can be seen on horseback.

Tektekan

Not actually a dance but a procession of men carrying bamboo split drums and giant cowbells around their necks, this classical, very old orchestra is played to exorcise malignant spirits when an epidemic, serious drought, or pestilence befalls the village.

The ceremony accompanies the Calon Arang, a legend dating from the 10th century in Java. Puri Anyar's Tektekan is made of bamboo, whereas the typical Balinese 'kebyar gong' is made of bronze.

This unique ensemble marches through the village only on the day before the Balinese New Year, whenever an exorcism is required, on certain auspicious days, or by special order of the raja when a tourist bus arrives. The drama must be accompanied by blood sacrifices (a small chicken or duck) at both the beginning and end.

Puri Night

Your inestimable host Pak Oka puts on monster banquets for as many as 300 Dutch cruise passengers, or big groups of Italians, French, or Germans who really lap it up. This magical evening begins with Tektekan dancers carrying enormous tick-tocking cowbells and lighted torches greeting buses full of astonished European tourists. Behind the men are lines of maidens performing a welcoming dance.

The guests are then invited into the second open-air courtyard to seat themselves around the central cempaka tree at candlelit tables with young coconut leaf settings. Delicious Indo-Chinese food is brought in by a procession of servers.

This buffet dinner (pay extra for beer) is the ultimate dining experience for those who like Balinese food served in the traditional manner. After dinner, the guests are invited to dance the Joged. What follows is one of the most mesmerizing Kris dances on the island, a version of the Calon Arang legend performed to the beat of hypnotically tuned bamboo tubes.

To drive away the demons, some of the players become entranced, arm themselves with 'kris' and attack Rangda. The last part of the dance can be so dangerous no one is allowed to use a flash for fear of snapping the dancers out of their deep state of trance. Half the village is there looking on.

Taking place about three times a month, this special event is usually reserved for private parties only. With permission, individuals may attend a large, already-booked Puri Night paying separately, or commission a private performance with dinner. For more information, contact Pak Oka at tel. 62361-812774.