The regency's capital as well as the commercial and arts center. Lying in the heart of Bali's thriving rice belt, Tabanan's town center is bustling with small industries and many Chinese-owned shops. East- and westbound traffic streams in and out of this medium-sized town on several one-way streets.

Visit Puri Tabanan, the ornate traditional residence of the raja and the seat of a powerful kingdom from the 17th to 20th centuries. The Kingdom of Tabanan consisted of a large number of rich and powerful 'jero' and 'puri'-the most influential were the rival houses of Puri Anom and Puri Kaleran.

During the 1945-48 period of violent political turmoil on Bali, Tabanan swarmed with anti-Dutch activities. On the edge of town is the Pancaka Tirta Cemetery, where Republicans killed in the conflict are buried.

Prior to 1989 Tabanan was a dirty shophouse town, but when the new Bupati was elected that year new buildings and a new market were built. There's now a supermarket, gardens and sidewalks beautify the roadways, and an efficient waste disposal system is in place. The town has even won prizes for cleanliness; some say it's the best-organized town on Bali. Today the place is booming, attracting even lawyers and a notary republic.

Though seldom visited by tourists and not known as an art center, Tabanan is actually rich in dance and art traditions. There are classical poetry (kakawin) clubs, it's been a woodcarving center since the 19th century, and the town is home to a famous 'gamelan' and the much acclaimed dance troupe Rama Dewa.

Five km east of Tabanan in the village of Abiantuwung the dance masters (sarjana senitari) of the Sanggar Tari Warhatnala ("School of Dance") train Balinese and foreign dancers. If coming from Denpasar, the school is on the right (16-km from Denpasar). See the sign by a big 'pura' and 'waringan' tree. Contact director I Gusti Ngurah Supartha, a well-known choreographer and musician.

Gedung Marya

Named after I Ketut Mario, Bali's preeminent choreographer and dance master of the 1920s and '30s who single-handedly created the 'kebyar' and 'terompong', this building is in front of the Puri Tabanan. Dances are staged here only in June during the art fair (pesta seni) and for Independence Day celebrations on 17 August. During the fair you may see the 'kebyar', 'arja', 'wayang kulit' and 'lomba-lomba' festival.

Explore the paddies and villages around town. Almost any side road out of Tabanan to the south eventually ends up at the sea, with a wide sandy sloping beach and good surf. The Tabanan coast offers isolated coves and rocky outcrops, which provide shade and spectacular ocean views. The black sand is known for its curative, therapeutic properties, and is said to be particularly helpful for arthritis.

Tabanan is one of the best and cheapest places on Bali to shop for everyday articles. The big market for the whole regency is in the middle of Tabanan, selling even exotic items like avocados. This busy 'pasar' is neater and cleaner than most markets, and the sellers don't hassle you. Shop here for clothes, shoes, 'krupuk' and household and electronic goods. Also for sale are sarong, ceremonial clothes and temple umbrellas.

The tourist information office is on Jalan Gunung Agung, tel. 62361-811602, on the east side of Gedung Marya.

Getting There and Away

From Denpasar, take a 'bemo' from Ubung station or follow the main highway west toward Negara through the villages of Sempidi, Lukluk and Kapal, arriving in Tabanan after 20 km. Alternatively, take a 'bemo' from Denpasar's Ubung station heading to Gilimanuk and get off in the town center.

The Tabanan bus station (Terminal Pesiapan) is on the west side of town. From this terminal big Isuzu vans head for Mengwi, Denpasar, Bedugul, Negara and Gilimanuk. All 'bis malam' leave from Terminal Pesiapan. Arrive one hour before departure.

You use long-distance bus to Jakarta (departs 0700, 24 hours), Bandung (0700), Bogor (0700), Surabaya (1900), Malang (1800) and Yogyakarta (1530).